What to Look for When Buying a Second-Hand Piano in the UK

A second-hand piano can be exceptional value or an expensive mistake, depending entirely on its condition. The instrument costs so little to move compared with what it costs to repair that it is worth spending time checking the right things before you pay. This guide covers what a competent inspection looks at: the plate, the soundboard, the strings and tuning pins, and the action. It also explains where to buy and when to bring in a tuner for a pre-purchase check.

Why condition matters more than age

A piano built in the 1960s that has been kept in a stable home environment, tuned regularly, and had its action serviced can play beautifully. A piano of the same age that spent years in a damp garage and was never tuned is close to worthless as a playing instrument. The age printed against the serial number tells you very little; the condition of the key components tells you everything. What follows covers each component in rough order of how expensive it is to put right.

The cast-iron plate

The plate is the large harp-shaped casting inside the piano that holds the strings under tension. A crack in the plate is serious: it cannot be repaired economically in a domestic piano and means the instrument cannot hold a tune properly. Look inside the lid and along the visible edges of the plate with a torch. Hairline cracks are sometimes found near the bridge points; a visible crack running along a section of the plate is a reason to walk away. Ask the seller whether the piano holds its tune reasonably between tunings: a cracked plate cannot.

The soundboard

The soundboard is the large panel of spruce behind or beneath the strings. It amplifies the vibration of the strings; without a functioning soundboard the piano sounds thin and muted. Look for cracks running with the grain of the wood. Some hairline cracks are common in older pianos kept in centrally heated rooms without humidity control, and do not always affect the sound seriously. The more important check is whether the ribs, the strips glued across the back face of the soundboard to hold it curved, are still bonded. A detached rib creates a buzzing on specific notes that is audible when you play quietly and listen carefully.

The strings and tuning pins

Strings in good condition are bright and slightly amber in colour rather than black or rusty. Surface rust that has not pitted the string can often be cleaned; deep corrosion usually means the string will break when the tuner tries to raise its pitch. A piano where every string is heavily corroded may need a full restring, which costs several thousand pounds and is rarely economical on anything except a quality upright or grand.

Tuning pins should feel firm. A pin that springs back when the tuner moves it is loose, which means the piano cannot be held at pitch without re-pinning or fitting oversized pins. Ask the seller how recently the piano was last tuned and how well it held between tunings.

The action

The action is the mechanism between the key and the string: hammers, dampers, wippen assemblies and the key bed. Play every note slowly and listen. Each note should sound clearly, and the damper (the felt pad that stops the note when you release the key) should work on every note that has one. Keys that do not sound, sound weakly, or ring on after you release them indicate action problems. Look at the hammer heads: they should be oval in cross-section. Flat grooves cut into the felt are worn hammers that will need voicing or replacing. A good technician can service most action problems; a severely worn or moth-damaged action is a larger job.

The cabinet and casework

Cosmetic damage such as scratches and faded lacquer affects value but not playability. Structural problems with the casework are a different matter. Check that the piano sits level on all four castors and that the casework is not warped. On an upright, open the top lid and the bottom panel and look at the back frame for structural cracking. On a grand, the legs should sit securely in their sockets and the lid should open and close without catching.

Getting a pre-purchase inspection

A pre-purchase inspection by a qualified piano technician is worth the cost on any instrument priced above a few hundred pounds. A tuner who is a member of the Pianoforte Tuners' Association or holds an IMIT qualification can do this: they play every note, check the action, inspect the plate and soundboard, assess the strings and pins, and give you a report on what it would cost to bring the instrument into good playing condition. For a private sale this is straightforward to arrange; for a dealer purchase, a reputable dealer will allow it, and you should be wary of any dealer who does not. The inspection typically costs between £50 and £90 and can save you from a much larger mistake.

Where to buy

Buying from a specialist piano dealer gives you some protection: the piano will normally have been tuned and serviced before sale, and a reputable dealer will tell you honestly what work has been done. Private sales (from classified sites or auction rooms) can be good value but come without that assurance, which is why a pre-purchase inspection matters more in those cases. Our piano shops directory lists dealers across the UK, independents first, each linking directly to their own website. Contact them directly; we do not take a share of the sale.

Budget: what to expect at different price points

At the lower end, under £500 for an upright, expect an older instrument that plays but may need tuning and light servicing. Between £500 and £2,000, a good second-hand upright from a reputable dealer should be in genuine playing condition, tuned and serviced. Above £2,000, a quality older upright or a small second-hand grand becomes realistic. Prices vary with location: pianos are expensive to move, so supply and demand differ between regions. A piano that seems expensive in one area may reflect a tight local market; one that seems cheap may have transport costs added on top.